An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

LIU Zanqiang  ZHANG Ningchuan  YU Yuxiu 《海洋学报(英文版)》2011,30(6):19-26

Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.  相似文献   

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

T.E. Baldock  J.A. Alsina  I. Caceres  D. Vicinanza  P. Contestabile  H. Power  A. Sanchez-Arcilla 《Coastal Engineering》2011

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.  相似文献   

Numerical simulation of nearshore circulation on field topography under random wave environment     

Junwoo Choi  Sung Bum Yoon 《Coastal Engineering》2011

In order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics through two-dimensional numerical simulations of nearshore circulation under random wave environment, a nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, and a random wave model, SWAN, were combined and utilized. Using this combined model, a numerical simulation of the October 2, 1997 SandyDuck field experiment was performed. For this simulation, field topography and an input offshore spectrum were constructed using observed data sets synchronized with the experiment. The wave-breaking model in SWAN was modified by using breaker parameters varied according to bottom slope. The simulation results were compared with the experimental data, which revealed a well-developed longshore current, as well as with results using other combinations which were SHORECIRC and its original monochromatic wave-driver, and SHORECIRC and the default of SWAN. The results from the novel combined model agreed well with the experimental data. The results of the present simulation also indicate that alongshore field topography influences shear fluctuation of longshore currents.  相似文献   

Characteristics of the boundary layer at the bottom of a solitary wave     

Giovanna Vittori  Paolo Blondeaux 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The results of direct numerical simulations of the boundary layer generated at the bottom of a solitary wave are described. The numerical results, which agree with the laboratory measurements of Sumer et al. (2010) show that the flow regime in the boundary layer can be laminar, laminar with coherent vortices and turbulent. The average velocity and bottom shear stress are computed and the results obtained show that the logarithmic law can approximate the velocity profile only in a restricted range of the parameters and at particular phases of the wave cycle. Moreover, the maximum value of the bottom shear stress is found to depend on the dimensionless wave height only, while the minimum (negative) value depends also on the dimensionless boundary layer thickness. Diagrams and simple formulae are proposed to evaluate the minimum and maximum bottom shear stresses and their phase shift with respect to the wave crest.  相似文献   

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves     

F.-C. Lee  John R.-C. Hsu  W.-H. Lin 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.  相似文献   

Separation of obliquely incident and reflected irregular waves by the Morlet wavelet transform   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Yuxiang Ma  Guohai Dong  Xiaozhou Ma 《Coastal Engineering》2011

An existing 2D time-domain method for separating irregular incident and reflected waves by wavelet transform [Ma et al., 2010. A new method for separation of 2D incident and reflected waves by the Morlet wavelet transform. Coastal Eng., 57(6):597–603] is extended to account for obliquely incident irregular waves propagating over sloping bottoms. The linear shoaling and refraction coefficients are adopted to determine the amplitude and phase changes of waves. The optimal central frequency of the Morlet wavelet is determined by the minimum Shannon wavelet entropy. Numerical tests show that the present method can accurately separate waves over horizontal depths. For waves at sloping bottoms, however, the separation errors increase as bottom slope increases and are significant for waves with incident angle larger than π/3.  相似文献   

Simulated eddy induced vertical velocities in a Gulf of Alaska model     

Shannon H. Nudds  Jennifer A. Shore 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2011,58(11):1060-1068

Mesoscale eddies can distribute nutrients, heat and fresh water into the Gulf of Alaska (GOA) from the coastal margins. While many studies have investigated the physical characteristics of GOA eddies, their effects on passive-dispersive particles have not been previously simulated to investigate eddy induced upwelling. A climatologically forced Parallel Ocean Program simulation of the north Pacific Ocean with an online particle tracking scheme was used to simulate passive-dispersive particles in the Gulf of Alaska. In-eddy vertical Lagrangian velocities of the particles were calculated both inside and outside the eddies and showed upwelling rates are generally greater inside the eddies where the vertical velocities of the particles ranged from 0.2 to 0.7 m/day.  相似文献   

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康开轩  李辉  邹正波  吴云龙 《大地测量与地球动力学》2011,31(2):71-75

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基于土地利用分类模型和重力模型耦合的人口分布模拟——以武汉市人口数据为例     

丁文秀  赵伟  左德霖  张亦梅  王维维  杨志强 《大地测量与地球动力学》2011,31(Z1):127-131

将土地分类模型和重力模型耦合形成新模型,并以武汉市人口数据为例,用耦合后的新模型模生成武汉市人口网格数据.经数据验证表明,耦合后的新模型在计算精度方面有了较大的提高.  相似文献   

重力界面反演改进算法的比较与应用     

张冲  吴国超  宋立成  袁志明  乔中坤 《世界地质》2015,34(3):819-824

为得到更接近地下真实分布的反演界面,笔者比较分析Parker-Oldenburg反演和改进迭代反演,发现改进迭代反演方法不仅可以避免计算放大项,而且能够得到更好结果。通过理论模型,对经典Parker-Oldenburg方法和改进迭代反演方法的计算速度、迭代收敛性和结果精确性进行比较,结果表明改进迭代反演方法在保证计算速度和迭代收敛的情况下,能获得更精确的地下界面结构。通过实际数据验证了改进迭代反演的有效性和实用性。  相似文献